The Truth About Relaxers: Understanding the Myths

All Chemical Hair Services Can Cause Damage If You’re Not Careful

People love to single out relaxers as dangerous. But here’s the truth: Every chemical hair service comes with risks. Whether it’s a perm, keratin treatment, or straightener, they all use powerful ingredients. These ingredients can burn skin, damage hair, or cause long-term issues if applied incorrectly.

Let’s break it down:

Key Components of Chemical Treatments

1. Ammonium Thioglycolate (used in perms & texturizers)

   
   

• What it does: It breaks down the bonds in curly or wavy hair to change its structure.

• How it causes burns: This ingredient is highly alkaline. If it touches your skin and isn’t removed quickly, it breaks down proteins in your skin, just like it does in your hair.

• Risk level: HIGH if the scalp isn’t protected.




2. G Acid & Formaldehyde Derivatives (used in keratin or smoothing systems)

   
   

• What it does: It straightens hair by coating the strands and sealing with heat.

• How it causes burns: These can release formaldehyde gas when heated, causing irritation to the scalp, eyes, and lungs. They can also burn the skin on contact during blow-drying or flat ironing.

• Risk level: EXTREME if used in enclosed spaces or too close to the scalp.




3. Hydrogen Peroxide (used as a neutralizer in perms, relaxers, and colors)

   
   

• What it does: It locks in the new shape of the hair by reforming broken bonds.

• How it causes burns: This is a strong oxidizing agent. If it sits on skin or enters tiny abrasions, it can irritate or burn the skin.

• Risk level: MODERATE without proper rinsing and timing.




4. Sodium Hydroxide (aka Lye – used in relaxers)

   
   

• What it does: It permanently straightens textured hair by breaking the disulfide bonds.

• How it causes burns: With a pH of 13-14, it’s extremely alkaline. If it contacts unprotected scalp or skin, it can damage skin cells, leading to irritation or burns.

• Professional application: When the scalp is suitably protected and the application is done right, it’s entirely safe and effective.

• Risk level: LOW when handled professionally.

The Real Concern: Protection and Technique

Truth Bomb: The problem isn’t relaxers — it’s the lack of protection and proper technique.

Just like bleaching, perms, and keratin treatments can damage hair without guidance, relaxers only become dangerous when applied improperly.

Professional stylists protect the scalp, avoid overlapping on previously relaxed hair, track processing time, and utilize neutralizers and conditioners. These steps lock in moisture and balance the pH.

When applied without knowledge—especially at home—things can go wrong.

Why Relaxers Are Heavily Demonized

Let’s address the stigma: Relaxers are culturally stigmatized, particularly in the Black community. This stigma isn't due to their dangerous properties but stems from deeper societal issues:

• Beauty standards that favor Eurocentric features.

• The perception that “natural is better.”

• Generational trauma linked to burns and breakage from improper application, not the product itself.

• Social media often amplifying fear instead of facts.

  
  

Meanwhile, keratin treatments and Japanese straighteners that can produce toxic gases are marketed as “luxury services.” Why? They are more frequently used on non-Black hair.

Let that sink in.

The Bottom Line: Practice Over Product

A relaxer, like any chemical treatment, can be safe and effective when applied by a trained professional. By utilizing proper scalp protection, managing realistic expectations, and following appropriate aftercare, relaxers can deliver stunning results.

So, no, relaxers aren’t villainous. The real dangers include:

• Misinformation

• DIY experiments

• Skipping scalp protection

• Trusting hype over science

  
  

Let’s Shift the Narrative

It’s time to stop shaming relaxers and begin educating. Black women deserve to have options. Whether you wear a silk press, locs, box braids, or a sleek bob — your hair is valid. Your choice is your own.

Empowered decisions stem from real knowledge, not fear.

Ready to Learn More?

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