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Unlocking the Secrets of Bond Setting: Roller Sets, Flat irons, Brazilian Blow Outs, Perms and Relaxers 101

Writer: AdminAdmin

Updated: Dec 21, 2024

Bond Setting in Hair Roll : Bond setting refers to the process of restructuring the bonds within the hair shaft to create or maintain a desired style. Hair is made up of keratin proteins held together by different types of bonds: hydrogen, salt, and disulfide bonds. When styling hair, the focus is typically on hydrogen bonds, which are temporarily altered by water, heat, or chemical treatments.




Types of Bond Setting Techniques


  1. Wet Set (Roller Setting):

    • Hair is dampened and wound onto rollers or rods to achieve curls or waves.

    • The hair dries in this set shape, and hydrogen bonds reform in the curled position.

  2. Thermal Setting (Blow-Drying, Flat Ironing):

    • Heat is applied using tools like flat irons, curling wands, or blow dryers to reshape the hair.

    • Heat temporarily breaks hydrogen bonds, allowing them to reset when the hair cools.

  3. Chemical Bond Alteration (Perms or Relaxers):

    • Disulfide bonds are permanently broken and reformed to create straight or curly hair.

    • These are long-lasting until chemically treated again or grown out.


Why Air Drying May Not Be Ideal


  • Uneven Results: Hair that is left to air dry might not hold a uniform style, resulting in frizz or inconsistent texture.

  • Time-Consuming: Air drying is slower, which could allow hair to absorb excess moisture from the environment, making it prone to damage.

  • Loss of Control: Without setting tools or techniques, hair may revert to its natural pattern unpredictably.


Using intentional bond-setting techniques helps create polished, predictable, and long-lasting styles while reducing the risk of hair damage.


 

Bond Setting in Hair : Wet Set Techniques


Wet setting focuses on styling damp hair using specific tools and techniques to mold it into the desired shape. This method relies on hydrogen bonds in the hair being broken and reformed as the hair dries, resulting in long-lasting styles without the need for excessive heat.


Types of Wet Setting Techniques


  1. Roller Setting:

    • Foam Rollers: Soft and ideal for creating loose, bouncy curls or waves. Best for overnight setting.

    • Velcro Rollers: Grip the hair without clips and create volume and soft waves. Ideal for medium to long hair.

    • Magnetic Rollers: Smooth plastic rollers that work best on wet hair to create sleek, uniform curls.

    • Hot Rollers (used on damp hair): Use heat alongside a wet set for quicker results and tighter curls.


  1. Rod Setting:

    • Flexi Rods: Flexible, cylindrical rods used for spiral curls. Work well for all hair textures.

    • Perm Rods: Hard plastic rods often used for tighter, defined curls, common in natural hair styling.

    • Curlformers: Special tools that pull sections of damp hair into a spiral-shaped sleeve to create uniform curls.

  2. Twist or Braid Setting:

    • Two-Strand Twists: Hair is divided into small sections, twisted, and left to dry. Produces natural-looking curls or waves.

    • Braids: Wet hair is braided into sections and allowed to dry. Creates crimped or wavy textures depending on braid size.

    • Flat Twists: Twists are done close to the scalp for defined curls with a natural root pattern.

  3. Pin Curls:

    • Small sections of damp hair are coiled into spirals and pinned flat to the scalp. Once dried, this technique produces classic, vintage curls or waves.

  4. Wrapping:

    • Hair is combed flat around the head in a circular motion and pinned. This method straightens hair or smooths it into a sleek style while maintaining body.

  5. Paper and Straw Setting:

    • Straw Set: Straws are used as mini rollers for extremely tight, coiled curls. Great for natural hair textures.

    • Paper Set: Thin pieces of paper or tissue are used to wrap sections of hair before rolling to prevent breakage and smooth ends.

  6. Sock or T-Shirt Setting:

    • Hair is wrapped around soft items like socks or fabric to create loose curls or waves. This is a heat-free and gentle option.


Benefits of Wet Setting:

  • Gentle on the hair, especially compared to heat styling.

  • Long-lasting results, as the hydrogen bonds are reset in a controlled manner.

  • Versatile outcomes, from tight curls to sleek and straight styles.

  • Helps maintain moisture in the hair, especially when paired with leave-in conditioners or styling creams.

Tips for Wet Setting Success:

  • Always start with clean, damp hair—avoid dripping-wet strands.

  • Use a setting lotion or mousse for hold and definition.

  • Ensure even tension when wrapping or rolling for consistent results.

  • Allow the hair to dry completely before removing tools to avoid frizz or loss of shape.


Wet setting is a timeless and highly customizable technique for achieving diverse and professional-looking styles.


 

Heat Setting in Hair


Heat setting involves using heat to reshape the hydrogen bonds in hair, allowing you to create smooth, curly, or wavy styles. Heat temporarily breaks hydrogen bonds in the hair structure, which then reset in the new shape as the hair cools. While effective and fast, heat setting must be done carefully to avoid damage.


Types of Heat Setting Techniques


  1. Blow-Drying:

    • Purpose: Creates volume, smoothness, or enhances natural texture.

    • Tools: Blow dryers with attachments like diffusers (for curls) or concentrators (for sleek styles).

    • Method:

      • Use a round brush for soft curls or volume.

      • Use a paddle brush for straight, smooth styles.

      • For natural curls, a diffuser helps maintain shape while minimizing frizz.

    • Heat Settings: Always start with medium heat and adjust as needed. Use the cool shot to lock in styles.


  2. Flat Ironing:

    • Purpose: Straightens hair or creates sleek waves.

    • Tools: Ceramic, titanium, or tourmaline flat irons.

    • Method:

      • Section hair for even heat distribution.

      • Use smooth, steady passes.

      • For curls or waves, twist the flat iron slightly as you glide.

    • Heat Settings:

      • Fine or damaged hair: 250–300°F

      • Normal hair: 300–375°F

      • Thick or coarse hair: 375–450°F


  3. Curling Iron or Wand:

    • Purpose: Creates defined curls, waves, or ringlets.

    • Tools: Curling irons with clamps or wands without clamps, available in various barrel sizes.

    • Method:

      • Wrap small sections of hair around the barrel for tighter curls.

      • Use larger sections or barrels for loose waves.

      • Hold each section for 5–10 seconds, depending on hair type and desired curl.

    • Heat Settings: Similar to flat ironing—adjust based on hair texture.


  4. Hot Rollers:

    • Purpose: Add volume and create soft, long-lasting curls.

    • Tools: Heated rollers of various sizes.

    • Method:

      • Roll small sections of hair and secure with clips.

      • Leave in place until cooled for bouncy, polished curls.

    • Heat Settings: Built into the rollers, usually preset for safe styling.


  5. Crimping:

    • Purpose: Creates textured, zigzag patterns in the hair.

    • Tools: Crimping irons or plates.

    • Method:

      • Section hair and press the crimper firmly for a few seconds.

      • Work in sections from root to tip.

    • Heat Settings: Use medium heat for finer hair and higher heat for thicker textures.


  6. Hot Brushes (Straightening or Curling):

    • Purpose: Combines brushing and heat for straightening or adding volume.

    • Tools: Heated styling brushes or air stylers.

    • Method: Slowly brush through sections while applying tension for smoothness or gentle curls.

    • Heat Settings: Typically adjustable based on hair type.


Key Tips for Heat Setting:

  • Prep Hair: Always apply a heat protectant to shield hair from high temperatures.

  • Choose the Right Tools: Opt for ceramic or tourmaline-coated tools for even heat distribution and less damage.

  • Work in Sections: Style small sections of hair for more precise and consistent results.

  • Cool Down: Allow each section to cool completely before touching or brushing to set the style.


Advantages of Heat Setting:

  • Fast and efficient for styling.

  • Highly versatile, allowing for a range of styles from sleek to voluminous curls.

  • Helps tame frizz and create a polished look.


Potential Risks and How to Avoid Them:

  • Overheating: Excessive heat can cause dryness or breakage. Use the lowest effective temperature for your hair type.

  • Repeated Use: Avoid using heat tools daily—incorporate no-heat styles to give hair a break.

  • Lack of Protection: Always use heat protectants to reduce damage.

Heat setting is a powerful styling method when done correctly, offering quick and long-lasting results while allowing for creative freedom.



 

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Dominican Blowouts: The Importance of Smoothing in Wet Setting

The Dominican blowout is a styling method that combines wet setting and heat setting to create smooth, voluminous, and straight hair. This technique is particularly effective for textured, natural, or curly hair, as it reduces the reliance on excessive heat by focusing on pre-smoothing the hair during the wet setting phase.


Steps in a Dominican Blowout Process


  1. Cleansing and Conditioning (Preparation):

    • Shampoo: Hair is thoroughly cleansed to remove dirt, oils, and product buildup that might interfere with smooth styling.

    • Deep Conditioning: A moisturizing conditioner or mask is applied to improve elasticity and smoothness, preparing the hair for easy detangling and styling.

    • Detangling: While wet, hair is carefully detangled with a wide-tooth comb to minimize knots and tangles, ensuring a smooth base for styling.

  2. Wet Setting (The Smoothing Phase):

    • Why Smoothing Is Key: Wet setting is the foundation of the blowout. The smoother the hair is during this phase, the less heat is required later, reducing the risk of damage. The process stretches and smooths the hair cuticle, ensuring sleek results.

    • Sectioning: Hair is divided into small, manageable sections.

    • Roller Placement: Hair is wrapped tightly and evenly around large magnetic rollers.

      • Tension: Applying consistent tension as the hair is wrapped is crucial for smoothing the strands and pre-stretching curls or waves.

      • Alignment: Each strand must lie flat on the roller to prevent ridges or bumps.

    • Drying: The rollers are set under a hooded dryer until the hair is completely dry.

      • Complete Dryness Is Critical: Any dampness will lead to frizz during the heat setting phase.

    • Result: After removing the rollers, the hair is significantly smoother, elongated, and prepped for minimal heat styling.


  3. Blow-Drying (Heat Setting):

    • Refining and Polishing:

      • A blow dryer with a concentrator nozzle and a round brush is used to further straighten and smooth the hair.

      • Because the wet setting phase has already smoothed the hair, this step requires less heat and effort.

    • Focusing on Roots: Extra attention is given to smoothing the roots, which may still have some natural texture after the roller set.

    • Heat Level: Medium to high heat may be used, but less time and intensity are needed compared to traditional blow-drying.


  4. Optional Finishing Touches:

    • Silkening: A lightweight oil or serum may be applied for shine and frizz control.

    • Flat Iron (Optional): For an ultra-sleek look, a flat iron can be used sparingly to touch up areas like the edges or ends.


The Role of Smoothing in Wet Setting


  • Cuticle Alignment: Wet setting smooths the hair cuticle, which reflects more light and gives the hair a natural shine.

  • Stretching: By stretching and smoothing the hair during the roller set, the curls or waves are relaxed, making the blow-drying phase quicker and less damaging.

  • Minimizing Frizz: Wet setting ensures a controlled and uniform drying process, reducing the chance of frizz caused by air drying or improper technique.

  • Heat Efficiency: When the hair is already smooth after the wet set, the heat from the blow dryer is used for refinement rather than complete straightening.


Benefits of a Dominican Blowout with Proper Wet Setting

  • Gentler on Hair: Pre-smoothing in the wet setting phase minimizes the need for excessive heat.

  • Long-Lasting Results: A properly smoothed foundation helps the blowout last longer without reversion.

  • Sleek and Voluminous Look: The smoothing achieved in the wet setting phase creates a balance of straightness and volume.

  • Reduced Time Under Heat: The blow-drying phase is quicker, lowering the risk of heat damage.


Tips for Smoothing Success During Wet Setting:

  • Use a setting lotion or mousse to enhance smoothness and hold.

  • Ensure even tension when wrapping hair around rollers.

  • Keep rollers aligned and sections neat to avoid uneven results.

  • Wait until hair is completely dry in rollers before moving to the next phase.


Focusing on smoothing during the wet setting phase is the cornerstone of a Dominican blowout. By achieving a sleek foundation early, the process minimizes heat exposure while delivering a polished, professional result.



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Sonia
Sonia
Dec 22, 2024
Rated 5 out of 5 stars.

I've just gone online a life checked for a very well reputable hairdresser who is always on YouTube she does a lot of texture release and silk press she's based in East London if I'm correct here always looks beautiful but the consultation alone is £120 I it's worth it if it means that you will be able to take away with not just having a beautiful healthy hair but nine the right things to use and how to maintain it. Salons do it for free and spend no more than five to 15 minutes but they may not be qualified enough especially when they don't know anything about the Scout and they don't know nothing about the science behin…

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Sonia
Sonia
Dec 22, 2024
Rated 5 out of 5 stars.

A real cosmetologist Or hairdresser qualified Right up until the MVQ level three and four Where they can actually teach Never does a person's hair Without A consultation And this consultation Will be based on your own Personal hair and scalp Conditions what you want What you expect They also consider your lifestyle They also consider To work around your lifestyle And To give you the ultimate Ability to manage your hair while away from the Sun A lot of people Assume this is free It is not It's very expensive And we get all this for free on here Including being taught the course on the hair Which will cause many many Hundreds thousands with tools and operators included…


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